Garage
Common and practical. Easy to empty, and the exhaust can vent outside. Check the manual for temperature limits in an unheated garage.
Power units
Central vacuum power-unit installation
Whether your home has a builder rough-in or an old unit that has given up, we mount, connect and test the new power unit and show you how to look after it.
Where the power unit should go
Basement or utility room
Close to the main pipe line, away from bedrooms, with room to empty the canister.
Clearances
Leave room above and around the unit for removing the canister, servicing and airflow.
Power
The unit needs a suitable outlet nearby. 240 V units need a 240 V supply. Electrical work is done by a licensed electrician and is not included.
What the installation includes
01
Mount
Bracket fixed to a solid wall at the right height for the pipe connection.
02
Connect
Intake pipe connected and sealed, low-voltage wire connected to the unit's terminals.
03
Exhaust
Exhaust muffler fitted, and exterior venting connected if part of your quote.
04
Test
Every inlet tested for start-up and suction, and a walkthrough of emptying and filter care.
120 V or 240 V?
Most homes use a 120 V unit. Very large homes, long pipe runs or many inlets sometimes call for a 240 V dual-motor unit like the Beam 3600A or CycloVac HD7525. A 240 V unit needs a matching supply, and the electrical work must be done by a licensed electrician. We help you decide at the quote visit.
FAQ
Common questions
Where should the power unit be installed?
Usually in the garage, basement or a utility room, close to the main pipe line and away from bedrooms, with room to empty and service it. Check the manufacturer's manual for temperature and clearance guidance.
Do 240 V central vacuums need special wiring?
Yes. They need a 240 V supply, which must be installed by a licensed electrician. That work is not included in our price.
Ready to talk about your home?
Free in-home installation quotes. Repairs from a $150 plus HST service call.